Hanging around in Uummannaq I spent some quality time with different people that I knew from work, not least Makkak and Sammu. Invited for pre-holidays kaffemik (a Greenlandic party to celebrate birthdays, confirmations, weddings and other things) I quickly accepted knowing that the brilliant cakes and coffee would prepare me for the next leg of the expedition. Between coffees, Saamu told me that I was in Sermitsiaq, one of two national newspapers in Greenland. A journalist had seemingly found the expedition Facebook page and published an article on Sermitsiaq's web page. Curious, I checked it out on the internet. It was interesting that they focused on my change of plans - a tiny bit of drama perhaps - but little did I realise how much this one article was going to change the shape of the expedition from that point on.
The following day, the 12th of July, I found myself in familiar surroundings, Hr. Mortensen's café, psyching myself up with a hot meal before paddling off towards Qaarsut, the next settlement on my journey. I took the time to write in my journal while the Philipino and Thai staff served the basic meal of the day. Hr. Mortensens is a popular place to eat for fisherman etc.. I'd eaten here many times before and after finishing yet another coffee, decided I couldn't delay any longer.
Having repacked and streamlined the boat I set off for what I thought would be a straightforward crossing. Sure, it was a bit breezy but only when I poked my nose out beyond the point of Spraglebugten did I get hit with the full force of the wind and start to encounter interesting waves. For 35 minutes I battled against the wind heading for the shelter of Uummannaq harbour. It was a bouncy and wet paddle to say the least. The Folbot Kodiak handled it well, as usual, and I pulled into the harbour to be met by Arne of Hotel Uummannaq, a little surprised to see me return so soon - the waves and wind were almost non-existent inside the harbour.
Arne mentioned that his boat was being chartered to Niaqornat early the following morning and that I could hitch a lift. It would mean leapfrogging Qaarsut and going straight to my ultimate destination: the settlement of Niaqornat. It sounded like a good plan, and would be as if I had arrived from Illorsuit - as per my original intention.
Things were turning out well and as the wind picked up I was hearing reports of friends who had also dropped Illorsuit from their itinerary due to bad weather - and they were in boats. I could risk being stuck in Niaqornat for a few days, but it was a risk worth taking - of all the settlements in Uummannaq fjord, Niaqornat was the only one I had never visited.
Having packed everything I quickly needed a place to sleep and was very grateful to sleep in a real bed in Birthe's guest room. Birthe, a colleague of Jane's at the hospital, had been following the expedition with interest and it was great to chat over even more coffee and shower one last time!
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